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Blog

4 Printer Upgrades That Powered Up My 3D Printing

Duncan Smith

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I wanted to share a few of my favorite upgrades I have made over the years and how/why it has improved my experience and quality of my prints.

Simplify3D

One of the early investments I made was in Simplify3D. After watching a few reviews and doing some reading, I basically impulse-purchased this software. At $150 that seems like a silly decision in retrospect. I can happily report that I get every bit of value out of this software and have seen consistent and great new features/changes to the software as it has been upgraded.

I love this software so much for its incredible feature set:

  • Customizable supports is fantastic and as I’ve mastered 3D printing I have relied more and more on these custom supports. Custom resolution (size), custom placement, infill and dense layer settings all roll up to be extremely useful – especially with the types of designs I create and print.
  • Variable layer settings allow different settings at different points within the print. This is more of an advanced setting but absolutely useful in the situations it makes sense to use.
  • Multiple processes allows me to print several parts at once with all different settings. Because my Taz 5 is so reliable and I know I can let it sit for hours and hours and not have to worry about it, I will load up the bed and print away and this setting allows me the flexibility to print all pieces at the settings I would as if I were printing them individually.

These are just a handful of the settings I love about Simplify3D and I recommend this program to anyone that can justify the price tag.

CHECK IT OUT HERE.

PEI Bed Surface

Going from a simple heated glass bed on my Robo R1 and the hassle of the painter's tape/hair spray I wanted something better. Lulzbot ships their printers with a PEI sheet which is basically a no maintenance print surface and works amazingly well. The only issue I have had with this surface is that over time bubbles form between the glass that causes layer adhesion issues. I solved this by buying a thicker PEI sheet and have not had any more issues and I continue to benefit from the near perfect performance of this surface. At less than $50 this is well worth your time.

CHECK IT OUT HERE.

E3D v6 HotEnd and Titan Extruder

I have always been a fan of E3D since I first tried their products and continue to be impressed with the quality, level of support, and overall reliability. I was intrigued by the idea of being able to print flexible material without opting for Lulzbot’s expensive printhead solution and knowing E3D I knew I could expect great results at a much lower cost. I have really had excellent results printing with these 2 upgrades. If you are interested in this and don’t have either, they have a combination package called Aero which combines both into a smaller footprint.

I did struggle to get the 2.85mm filament to work with the Titan and ended up going with the 1.75mm version instead and have been very pleased. If you are using 2.85mm and want to stick with that size I would caution you with that and recommend you do a little research before buying.

CHECK IT OUT HERE.

Enclosure

I knew that I wanted to print in ABS in order to do things like solvent welding (instead of gluing), I liked the option of acetone smoothing and finally, ABS is just an easier material to finish. My issue with the open design of the Taz 5 was terrible bed adhesion, warping, and layer splitting. Adding an enclosure solved all of these issues for me and I've been printing with excellent results using ABS ever since!

As you can tell the theme here is consistency, reliability, and flexibility. As I’ve become more advanced in my abilities it is now a requirement for me to have the flexibility I want. There are other modifications I would love to make to the Taz to fine tune it but as I’ve learned it’s best not to bite off more than I can chew.


Share with me your favorites upgrades/mods you have made to your printer. I’d love to see what has/hasn’t worked for folks.

3D Printed Speaker Eggs Build

Duncan Smith

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Introduction

A DIY speaker build has been something I have wanted to do for a very long time and I’ve finally crossed that off my to-do list. This build was very challenging, the design work was fairly extensive and required many small modifications after the fact (rest assured the uploaded files are the best versions), the print time was extensive and having a good low-warp material with good surface quality is key, the finishing I chose to do was excessive but I really wanted that exact look, and finally the wiring was a bit over my head initially BUT all-in-all I learned so much during this build and am really happy with and proud of the result.

Disclaimer

Because speakers and sound quality, in general, is important to many people I want to preface that I am no speaker design expert, the opposite in fact so I cannot guarantee the design or sound is optimal, and I say that because this is a BIG project and quite expensive at that, so I don’t want anyone to put in this amount of work and be disappointed in the result. I think the speakers sound good but I am no audiophile and the speakers are brand new so not the best time to judge. I used several online calculators to help determine the speaker and crossover design so I did my due diligence on the design part as best I could. Anyway, with that out of the way here is how it was done.

What You Will Need

Any/all necessary protective equipment.

*Links provided are affiliate links if used to purchase something may provide Adylinn Studio a small commission.

3D Printed Parts

Print time is roughly 160 hours for all 8 pieces @ 60 mm/s. The difficulty I would classify as intermediate for the printing and advanced for the wiring/assembly. 

Enclosure Top, Base and Ring Print Settings

  • Low warp filament recommended
  • 0.2mm layer height
  • 50% infill
  • 4 outer perimeter shells
  • Support is required (I was able to increase angle to 60 degrees from 45)
  • Raft required 

Front Speaker Panel Print Settings

  • Low warp filament recommended
  • 0.2mm layer height
  • 50% infill
  • 4 bottom layers
  • Support optional
  • Raft not required required
  • Brim optional

Finishing 3D Prints

  1. Remove all support material and rafts.

  2. Start by sanding down each outer portion of the printed parts – starting with 120 and slowly progressing up to 320 (or higher if desired).

  3. Using a lightly damp cloth, wipe down sanded parts to remove any dust

  4. Apply 1-2 coats of primer.

  5.  Lightly sand down dry primed parts with 600+ grit sandpaper

  6. Using a lightly damp cloth, wipe down sanded parts to remove any dust

  7. Apply 2-3 coats of paint to each component. I chose a glossy white paint for the top, metallic silver for the ring and speaker panel, and used a brown undercoat for the hydro-dipped base. The base was then dipped in a burlwood pattern. See my hydro-dipping guide here for instructions on how to apply this type of finish.

  8. I clear coated each of the parts – glossy clear coat for the top, speaker panel, and ring and a matte clear coat for the wood base.

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Wiring and Assembly

  1. Review the pictures and wiring diagram and lay out the components to understand where they go prior to gluing or wiring.

  2. Glue crossover components to back panel inside top according to pictures. I used a combination of glue and hot glue.

    Tip - Do not wrap the crossover component wires to one another until you have the wiring ready to be soldered as to make sure you have a good connection for all points (I made the mistake of wrapping the crossover components together first and it made the wiring later much more difficult due to the rigidity of the inductor and capacitor wires).

  3. Get the wiring into place according to the wiring diagram and confirm everything is in the right place and you feel confident you understand where each lead will go.

  4. Combine all leads correctly and solder together.

  5. Install the tweeter and speaker into the speaker panel. I used glue first and screws for the speaker.

  6. Install the speaker binding posts to the bases.

  7. Use sealant to seal the binding posts to the base – apply both inside and outside.

  8. Wire the positive and negative leads to the corresponding locations on both the tweeter and the speaker. Solder the connections.

  9. Wire the amp wiring inside the speaker enclosure to the binding posts and solder the connection.

  10. Glue the ring to the base. Use a sealant to fill any seams.

  11. Glue the speaker panel to the top enclosure, then use the sealant on the inside seams.

  12. Glue the assembled top to the base assembly. Pre-apply the sealant where it makes sense to try fill any seams. The sealant I used, applied white and dried clear so I filled all out seams with the sealant then wiped off the excess.

  13. Wire amp speakers to binding posts – ensure the negative & positive as well as the left and right are all correctly wired.

  14. Plug in amp power, turn on, and enjoy!

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Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build! 

3D Printed Watch Case Build

Duncan Smith

Watch Case Build.png
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Introduction

This build is an easy project that adds a little style to your watch collection. This is a simple 2 watch design using simple components and 3D printed parts. 

What You Will Need

Any/all necessary protective equipment.

*Links provided are affiliate links if used to purchase something may provide Adylinn Studio a small commission.

3D Printed Parts

Print time is roughly 17 hours for all 3 pieces @ 60 mm/s. The difficulty I would classify as easy for both the printing and assembly. 

Watch Case (decent surface quality to limit amount of sanding needed)

  • Filament choice not really important
  • 0.2mm layer height
  • 25-30% infill (ideally you use multiple processes and use a high infill for at least the first 10mm if you can. 
  • Support is optional depending on overhang performance
  • Brim optional

Cover and Cover Back Plate

  • Filament choice not really important
  • 0.2mm or higher layer height
  • 15-20% infill
  • Support recommended
  • Brim optional

Finishing 3D Prints

  1. Remove any support material.
  2. Sand pieces to the desired smoothness. Start with 220 or320 grit and move up until you have a nice smooth part without visible print lines. 
  3. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
  4. Apply even and a light coat of primer.
  5. Allow enough time for the primer to dry, then sand lightly.
  6. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
  7. Once the parts are dry, evenly apply light coat(s) of base coat spray paint.
  8. At this point, you can either finish with a clear coat or you can hydro-drip your parts (you can see a full guide on how to do that here.)

Assembly

  1. Prepare acrylic by cutting to a 3.6” x 4.3” rectangle. I used painters tape, marked the lines, and then cut using a jigsaw.
  2. Slide acrylic rectangle into the back of the cover.
  3. Slide (glue optional) back cover plate behind the acrylic sheet. (For a seamless look, slide acrylic into before finishing the cover and use Bondo Spot Putty to fill the seam and then finish. 
  4. Review how hinges operate and ensure orientation is correct before inserting into all 4 mounting holes.
  5. Now you are ready to wrap your watches around the watch pillows, insert into the case and close the lid. I hope you enjoy your 3D printed watch case!
     

Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build! Reach out on social media or leave a comment. If you have suggestions for future builds or improvements to the way the builds are presented please let me know.

     

    Level Up Your 3D Print Finishing Game with Hydro-dipping

    Duncan Smith

    Hydro dipping or water transfer printing is a remarkably simple process in concept and easy to do but technique appears to be the differentiator between great results and mediocre results but there is a limited obstacle to entry and learning to do it well could yield some really great results for finishing your 3D prints. I am going to do a quick introductory guide to finishing your parts using this technique.
     

    What you will need:

    A DIY Dip Kit is a good starting point as it includes almost everything you need to get started.
     

    Getting your part ready to dip:

    Remove any supports from your part and thoroughly sand to a smooth finish. (Sign up for my newsletter to get my free finishing guide). Once you have your part to the desired smoothness, clean your part with alcohol wipes or a lightly damp cloth. 
     

    Sanded and spot putty applied to the remaining defects.

    Sanded and spot putty applied to the remaining defects.

    Primer and Base Coat:

    Once your part has dried completely, spray the part lightly with primer to avoid uneven areas or pooling/dripping of the primer. You may need to do 2 coats to get good coverage (15-20 minutes between coats). Once the primer has had some time to dry, spray light and even coats of paint, again you may need 2 coats to get good even coverage (20-30 minutes between coats).

    Primed and sanded.

    Primed and sanded.

    *Depending on your film, different colors of base coat may affect the final look of your part. Using a more transparent film will yield more dramatic effects. Experiment to find something you really like. When buying a dip kit, you can typically manually choose the base coat color or you can have the company provide a recommended color based on your film.
     

    I used caramel and black to go under the wood and metal film respectively.

    I used caramel and black to go under the wood and metal film respectively.

    Cutting and Preparing Film:

    Cut your film in a size that will be able to fit into your container as well as fully cover the surface area of your object. Review the instructions of the film to determine which side gets placed in the water. I like to use painters tape and tape around the border on the back side of the film as this helps it float and not allow water to run on top of the film. Having your film ready before getting the water to temperature will save you from having it cool down too quickly before dipping.

    Preparing Dip Container for Dipping:

    For the films, I have seen they are typically 20” wide so my recommendation is to get a container slightly wider than this and then as deep as you feel necessary based on the size of prints you make. 

    Fill up your container with warm tap water and allow it to settle. You can optionally use a tank heater or something similar to heat your temperature up precisely however dipping has a range it works well with so it’s not critical. Fill with water almost all the way up. You will submerge your parts so don’t fill all the way – leave some room 2-3 inches from the top.
     

    Placing Film:

    Take your cut piece of film by the corners and very slowly lay your film in the container by starting by dropping the middle slightly into the container and then laying down the sides. Make sure you do this very slowly to avoid 1) creating any bubbles and 2) allowing the water to get on top of the film.

    Film will expand slightly once in water.

    Film will expand slightly once in water.

    Once your film is set in the container, let it sit for about 1 minute. After this is complete spray the film entirely in slow, light, and even coats with the activator. Spray light horizontal strokes and then light vertical strokes. The activator only needs about 15 seconds to work so be ready to dip your part soon after this is complete.
     

    Film should look like this after spraying activator

    Film should look like this after spraying activator

    Dipping:

    Hold your object at about a 45-degree angle and dip slowly into the film. Maintain the angle while dipping or roll your object depending on what it is but rolling may cause some distortion in the image transfer. Once your object has been submerged completely, swirl it around under water. Remove from container.
     

    Rinse:

    You will need to remove any remaining residue from the activator by rinsing under warm tap/running water (low pressure).

    Clear Coat:

    Allow your part to fully dry. Once dry, apply light even coats of clear coat. You may want to apply 2-3 coats.

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    DIY Wine Bottle Carousel Build

    Duncan Smith

    DIY Wine Bottle Carousel.png
    2017-09-01_11:25:44.png

    Introduction

    This build is a complement to the Wine Glass Shelf build from earlier this year. This build is almost completely 3D printed with the exception of one hardware piece. With a simple finish and assembly you can enjoy a rotating wine bottle carousel.

    What You Will Need

    Materials:

    Tools:

    Any/all necessary protective equipment.

    *Links provided are affiliate links if used to purchase something may provide Adylinn Studio a small commission.

    3D Printed Parts

    The print time for the carousel is quite extensive at its current design so I would not feel comfortable recommending 3D Hubs since the cost would likely be too high to justify. 

    For those of you who do have a 3D printer, I recommend the following settings:

    Carousel (decent surface quality to limit amount of sanding needed)

    • Filament choice not really important
    • 0.2mm layer height
    • 25-30% infill
    • Support
    • Raft recommended due to minimal surface contact
    • Brim optional

    Base

    • Filament choice not really important
    • 0.2mm or higher layer height
    • 15-20% infill
    • No Support
    • Brim optional

    Finishing 3D Prints

    1. Remove raft and support material.
    2. Sand carousel to the desired smoothness. Start with 220 or 320 grit and move up until you have a nice smooth part without visible print lines. 
    3. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
    4. Apply even and light coat of primer.
    5. Allow enough time for primer to dry, then sand lightly.
    6. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
    7. Once the parts are dry, evenly apply light coat(s) of bronze spray paint.
    8. Once the parts are dry, evenly apply light coat(s) of clear coat.

    Assembly

    1. Glue the turntable bearing onto the carousel and base respectively. Alternatively, you can fasten the bearing with screws.
    2. Insert wine bottles and enjoy your Wine Bottle Carousel!

     

    Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build! Reach out on social media or leave a comment. If you have suggestions about future builds or improvements to the way the builds are presented please let me know.

       

      Smart Speaker/Lamp (DIY Google Home + Lamp

      Duncan Smith

      2017-09-01_11:35:31.png

      Introduction

      This build was intended to be a combination of a smart speaker (run by Google Assistant) and a smart lamp (Philips Hue light bulb) however, this was quite an ambitious build to complete in a month so the design work could use some refining and for that reason I have included the Fusion 360 design files in case you want to make modifications but please excuse the amateur design skills that will be clearly evident. This can be completed in a number of variations but I am going to document just my steps but feel free to improvise wherever you like. This is a combination of 3D printed parts (enclosure mostly) and an assembly of various components but I also opted to try my hand at Hydro-dipping the base for a cool finish - this is strictly optional and I will try to call it out in the materials list and instructions in case you want to skip this. No specialized tools are required and a 3D printer is not required - you can utilize a print service such as 3DHubs.com to obtain the 3D printed parts from a local printer.

      What You Will Need

      Materials:

      Recommendations

      I’d recommend taking some time to look at the project and see if you want to change anything ahead of time and plan around those changes. I specifically would look at some of the design issues with this particular build and suggest designing a new base with the speaker facing forward instead of downward.  Installing the software onto the Raspberry Pi is not advanced but it does require some level of technical expertise. I would suggest going with Amazon Alexa since that has been out for some time and most likely has the best beginner instructions available.

      Installing Smart Assistant

      If you intend to install Google Assistant - follow these instructions:

      https://developers.google.com/assistant/sdk/overview

      https://www.instructables.com/id/Hands-Free-Google-Assistant-for-Raspberry-Pi/

      If you intend to install Amazon Alexa - follow these instructions:

      https://github.com/alexa/alexa-avs-sample-app/wiki/Raspberry-Pi

       

      3D Printed Parts

      If you are sourcing your 3D printed parts, I’d suggest a local printer on 3D Hubs so you can pick up your printed pieces without having to risk shipping. Be sure to communicate the below settings when placing your order:

      Base and Back (decent surface quality to limit amount of sanding needed)

      • Filament choice not really important
      • 0.2mm layer height
      • 15-20% infill
      • No Support
      • Brim optional

      Shade (decent surface quality to limit amount of sanding needed)

      • Translucent light filament (eSun Natural HIPS is a good choice)
      • 0.1 or 0.2mm layer height
      • 10% infill
      • No Support
      • Brim optional

      Light Fixture

      • Filament choice not really important
      • 0.2mm layer height or higher
      • 10% infill
      • No Support
      • Brim optional

      Order a 3D Print

      Finishing 3D Printed Shade

      1. Remove any brim if necessary.
      2. Sand shade to the desired smoothness. Start with 220 or 320 grit and move up until you have a nicely smooth part without visible print lines. 
      3. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
      4. Once the parts are dry, evenly apply clear coat.

      Finish & Dip 3D Printed Base

      1. Remove any brim if necessary.
      2. Sand shade to the desired smoothness. Start with 120and move up to 320 grit and continue sanding until you have a nicely smooth part without visible print lines. 
      3. Use putty to fill any remaining defects.
      4. Sand down any spots where putty was applied until surface is smooth.
      5. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
      6. Evenly apply primer to the parts.
      7. Once primer has dried, lightly sand primer and wipe down.
      8. At this point you can paint the parts and move to clear coating OR use base paint coat prior to hydro-dipping your part. 
      9. Follow hydro-dipping instructions to add a graphic to your pieces.
        1. This involves filling up a container of water between 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit.
        2. Cutting film to necessary dimensions and apply tape to the border.
        3. Placing film into water for 60 seconds while removing any bubbles or creases.
        4. Spray film lightly with activator.
        5. Dipping part at 30-45 degree angle to apply graphic (submerge completely)
        6. Rinsing under water for 3-5 minutes to remove residue/coating.
      10. Once the parts are dry, evenly apply clear coat.

      Assembly

      1. Remove any brim if necessary.
      2. Sand shade to the desired smoothness. Start with 220 or320 grit and move up until you have a nicely smooth part without visible print lines. 
      3. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
      4. Once the parts are dry, evenly apply clear coat.

       

      Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build! Reach out on social media or leave a comment. If you have suggestions about future builds or improvements to the way the builds are presented please let me know.

         

        LED Ring Lamp Build

        Duncan Smith

        DIY Build Using 3D Printed Parts

        2017-09-01_11:39:30.png

         

        Introduction

        This is an easy build that results in a cool little LED Ring Lamp. This light can be placed in various locations to add some color and style. No specialized tools are required and a 3D printer is not required - you can utilize a print service such as 3DHubs.com to obtain the 3D printed parts from a local printer.

        What You Will Need

        Materials:

        Tools:

        Any/all necessary protective equipment.
         

        3D Printed Parts

        If you are sourcing your 3D printed parts, I’d suggest a local printer on 3D Hubs so you can pick up your printed pieces without having to risk shipping. Be sure to communicate the below settings when placing your order:

        Ring and Base (decent surface quality to limit amount of sanding needed)

        • Filament choice not really important
        • 0.2mm layer height
        • 15-20% infill
        • Orientation - laying on side
        • Support needed, brim recommended

        Order a 3D Print

         

        Finishing Ring and Base

        1. Remove support material and brim
        2. Sand all the printed parts to the desired smoothness. Start with 120 grit and move up to 320 grit for a nicely smooth part without visible print lines. 
        3. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
        4. Once the parts are dry, evenly apply primer.
        5. Once the primer has dried, sand lightly. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
        6. Paint parts with desired color. For this build a matte white was used. Two coats is recommended.
        7. After the paint has had enough time to dry, apply clear coat. 

         

        Wood Veneer

        1. Wrap wood veneer around Ring to get an estimated length, then cut slightly longer than needed.
        2. Before using Clothes Iron remove any water and allow clothes iron to dry.
        3. Heat up a clothes iron on the cotton setting. (Warning - some residue from the process may get on heat plate, though this did not happen during my build)
        4. Wrap wood veneer around Ring and do not allow it to get loose as you move around the ring. 
        5. Use iron to melt adhesive, allowing it to stick to the 3D printed ring. The general speed to avoid scorching wood is 2 inches per second but it seems to be quite tolerant of the heat. Do this until all veneer is glued onto ring.
        6. Once at end, you can trim up the excess and finally adhere the last section of the veneer.
        7. Apply generous amount of linseed oil to veneer all the way around.
        8. Let oil sit and penetrate wood for roughly 10-15 minutes.
        9. Wipe any excess oil from veneer.

        Assembly

        1. Glue the 3D printed base to the Ring and make sure the holes line up. 
        2. Insert the LED strip into the ring to get a general estimate of the length needed. First, test the length and connect the connector to confirm before cutting.  Cut at the closest “cut point” on the strip (this is indicated on the strip itself). ***Be sure to cut slightly longer than the inner diameter as part of the strip will be inside the base.  
        3. Feed the LED strip into he base and connect to the power connecter.
        4. Remove backing of LED strip to expose the adhesive backing. Do this as you progress.
        5. Adhere LED strip to the inside of the Ring. 
        6. Route the wire out the back of the base.
        7. Connect the power connector to the wall and enjoy your new LED Ring Lamp!

         

        Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build! Reach out on social media or leave a comment. If you have suggestions about future builds or improvements to the way the builds are presented please let me know.

         

         

        DIY Wine Glass Shelf

        Duncan Smith

         

        How to Build a DIY Shelf with Wine Glass Brackets

        2017-09-01_11:43:50.png

         

        Introduction

        This build gives you the option to easily upgrade an existing shelf in your home to add brackets to hang wine glasses OR a full DIY build including the shelf brackets and shelf. These instructions will be split into two so you can easily follow the desired option - the full DIY build will be posted here but the abbreviated instructions for upgrading an existing shelf are available to download below. No specialized tools are required and a 3D printer is not required - you can utilize a print service such as 3DHubs.com to obtain the 3D printed parts from a local printer. If you do not have a saw to cut the wood, you should be able to ask your hardware store to make the necessary cuts when purchasing the wood. 

         

        What You Will Need

        Materials:

        Tools:

        Any/all necessary protective equipment.

        3D Printed Parts

        If you are sourcing your 3D printed parts, I’d suggest a local printer on 3D Hubs so you can pick up your printed pieces without having to risk shipping. Be sure to communicate the below settings when placing your order:

        Shelf Brackets (decent surface quality to limit amount of sanding needed)

        • Strong filament like ABS is recommended.
        • 0.2mm layer height
        • 70-80% infill
        • No support
        • Brim optional

        Wine Glass Brackets (decent surface quality to limit amount of sanding needed)

        • Filament choice not really important
        • 0.2mm layer height
        • 20-30% infill
        • Orientation - thick/back end on build platform with brackets standing straight up.
        • No support
        • Brim optional

        Order a 3D Print

        Wine Glass Bracket Orientation.png

         

        Brackets

        1. Sand all the printed parts to the desired smoothness. Start with 120 grit and move up to 320 grit for a nicely smooth part without visible print lines. 
        2. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
        3. Once the parts are dry, evenly apply primer.
        4. Once the primer has dried, sand lightly. Wipe the sanded parts with a lightly damp cloth or paper towel.
        5. Paint brackets with desired color. For this build a matte white was used for the glass brackets and then a metallic bronze paint was used for the shelf brackets. Two coats is recommended.
        6. After the paint has had enough time to dry, apply clear coat. 

         

        Shelf

        1. I recommend using a piece of MDF or plywood that is 3/4” thick, the depth should be 5 5/8” and it does not matter the length. I used 36” which allowed plenty of space for 6 wine glasses. 
        2. Plan in advance where you want your mounting shelf brackets to be as you will need to cut out small notches for the shelf to sit. 
        3. Sand the wood to desired smoothness. Use a damp cloth or paper towel to remove any dust.
        4. Prime the shelf on both sides - edges are do not need to be painted. 
        5. Lightly sand the shelf once the primer has dried.  Use a damp cloth or paper towel to remove any dust.
        6. Paint both sides with two coats. 
        7. Measure out and mark up where the brackets will be installed (both the shelf brackets and the wine glass brackets) and where the notches will be cut. For a 36” long shelf there was 30” between the 2 shelf brackets. If you desire to install the shelf brackets into a stud 30” may not work. 
        8. Pre-drill holes in the shelf for the wine glass brackets by using a wine glass bracket as a guide. 
        9. Cut out notches in the shelf (2 per side) for the shelf to sit on the brackets. I used a combination of a drill and a razor blade. This does not need to be very precise as it should be fully covered by the bracket. 
        10. Pre-cut the three strips of wood veneer for all sides of the shelf (do not need a strip for the back that will be against the wall).
        11. Before using Clothes Iron remove any water and allow clothes iron to dry.
        12. Heat up a clothes iron on the cotton setting. (Warning - some residue from the process may get on heat plate, though this did not happen during my build)
        13. Place the veneer strip on the side of the shelf.
        14. Use iron to melt adhesive, allowing it to stick to the shelf. The general speed to avoid scorching wood is 2 inches per second.
        15. Apply veneer to the other side and then finally finish with the front strip. Doing it in this order should avoid any visible seam from the front of the shelf. 
        16. Because the strips are thicker than the wood, use a box cutter/razer blade to remove any overhanging material. Use the shelf to keep the blade straight. 
        17. Apply a generous amount of linseed oil to veneer.
        18. Let oil sit and penetrate wood for roughly 10 minutes.
        19. Wipe any excess oil from veneer.
        20. Finally clear coat the entire shelf and the wood veneer. 

         

        Assembly and Mounting

        1. Glue is not necessary but you can optionally apply glue to each wine glass bracket before screwing them into the shelf. 
        2. Screw in all wine glass brackets using the pre-drilled holes to line up the brackets. 
        3. Measure and mark where the shelf brackets will be placed. Make sure the brackets when mounted on the wall will match up the notches you cut into the shelf in an earlier step. 
        4. Mounting the brackets into a stud is not necessary but recommended if anything heavy will be placed on shelf. I simply used drywall screws as the weight on top of the shelf would be very minimal. 
        5. Once the shelf brackets are installed you should be able to simply place the shelf on top of the brackets and the notches should allow the shelf to sit securely. 
        6. Hang your wine glasses and enjoy your DIY Wine Glass Shelf!

         

        Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build! Reach out on social media or leave a comment. If you have suggestions about future builds or improvements to the way the builds are presented please let me know.

         

         

        ***Links provided are affiliate links if used to purchase something may provide Adylinn Studio a small commission to keep the site and projects running. This does not cost you anything.

         

        Concrete Clock Build

        Duncan Smith

        How to Build Your Very Own Clock with Concrete, Wood, and 3D Printed Parts

        Concrete clock hero.jpg
        2017-09-01_11:49:02.png

        Introduction

        The Concrete Clock was designed to utilize 3D printing to make a custom shape for the mold to shape the clock. The project includes a concrete clock made out of Shapecrete which was molded out of a 3D printed cavity, inside each hour indention I have inserted a wood insert which is a 3D printed shape with wood veneer adhered on top, and then finally I added a standard clock kit to finish off the clock. No specialized tools are required and a 3D printer is not required - you can utilize a print service such as 3DHubs.com to obtain the 3D printed parts from a local printer. 

         

        What You Will Need

        Materials:

        Tools:

        Any/all necessary protective equipment.

        3D Printed Parts

        If you are sourcing your 3D printed parts, I’d suggest a local printer on 3D Hubs so you can pick up your printed pieces without having to risk shipping. Be sure to communicate the below settings when placing your order:

        Mold Cavity (ideally this has decent surface quality to limit amount of sanding needed)

        • Any type of filament can be used – something cheap with good print quality. 
        • 0.2mm layer height
        • 10% infill
        • Support (all – not just off build platform)
        • Brim optional

        Inserts and Mount Piece (surface quality not important)

        • Any/cheap filament will do
        • 0.2mm layer height
        • 10-15% infill

        Support Block (surface quality not important)

        • Any/cheap filament will do
        • 0.2mm layer height
        • 15-20% infill

        Order a 3D Print

         

        Mold Cavity

        1.    Remove the support under the mounting hole for the clock. Be careful as this section is going to be a little fragile. 

        2.    Do some light sanding as needed but mostly optional unless there are obvious areas that could use some touch-up. The concrete can be sanded so this step isn’t absolutely crucial but it does help. 

        3.    Mix roughly 3 parts concrete mix to 1 part water (use the box instructions if using something different than Shapecrete). 

        4.    I tried a mold release solution of 1 part soap to 10 parts water but I am not sure it was very effective, try PAM or vegetable oil as a mold release agent but don’t use an excessive amount – just coat the inside cavity lightly. 

        5.    Place the support block under the shallow side of the cavity to be sure the top is flat for pouring the concrete in. 

        6.    Once it is well mixed and cake batter type consistency pour into mold. Be sure to get as much below and around the block for the clock kit. Try to fill close to the top edge but not all the way. You have roughly 30 minutes of working time so no need to rush this step. 

        Pour Concrete-1.jpg

        7.    Try to remove any air bubbles by slowly and gently shaking the mold.

        • Optionally you can use an orbital sander to apply vibrations to the outside of the mold.

        8.    Insert the mounting piece at the top of the clock (the deep side). This will create a hole for the clock to sit on top of a screw. 

        9.    Let the concrete mold sit for at least 48 hours. For now work on Wood Inserts.

        10.    Once concrete is hardened, remove from mold. You may need to break apart the mold to do this.

        11.    Sand outside of the concrete base to desired surface finish. You can use sandpaper manually or use an orbital sander. You can use as low as 80 grit initially and then move toward 320 grit or higher if desired. 

         

        Wood Inserts

        1.    Cut long enough strips of the wood veneer for the 12 inserts. 

        2.    Before using Clothes Iron remove any water and allow clothes iron to dry.

        3.    Heat up a clothes iron on the cotton setting. (Warning - some residue from the process may get on heat plate, though this did not happen during my build)

        4.    Place the veneer strips on the inserts

        5.    Use iron to melt adhesive, allowing it to stick to the 3D printed inserts. The general speed to avoid scorching wood is 2 inches per second but be cautious as to not melt or deform the plastic beneath. Do this until all veneer is glued onto all inserts.

        6.    Now trim up the excess around the inserts doing this upside down. Use a sharp razor blade box cutter to not tear the wood. 

        7.    Use sanding paper or a Dremel sanding tool to round the corners.

        8.    Apply a generous amount of linseed oil to veneer 

        9.    Let oil sit and penetrate wood for roughly 10 minutes.

        10.    Wipe any excess oil from veneer.

        11.    Optionally add clear coat to the inserts.

         

        Finishing

        1.    Depending on the type of finish you prefer you can either leave the bare concrete clock as-is as well as keep the clock hands white or do some variation of the below steps. The steps below will outline the steps I used for the exact finish I went with. 

        2.    Tape around the ring of the clock face.

        3.    Use white spray paint to coat the face.

        4.    Spray paint the clock hands with gold metallic spray paint.  

        5.    Once white paint is dry, remove painters tape from around face.

         

        Assembly

        1.    Apply hot glue to the back of each Wood Insert and push into each hour inset to glue into place. Other types of glue are most likely acceptable.

        2.    Install the clock kit per the kit instructions. 

        3.    Once installed you will need to cut (roughly ½”) off the minute and second hands as it will overhand the clock face. 

         

        Mounting

        Since the clock will be quite heavy, I recommend using a screw into a stud to hang the clock. 

         

         


        Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build! Reach out on social media or leave a comment. If you have suggestions about future builds or improvements to the way the builds are presented please let me know.

         

         

        ***Links provided are affiliate links if used to purchase something may provide Adylinn Studio a small commission to keep the site and projects running. This does not cost you anything.

         

        Teardrop Lamp Build

        Duncan Smith

        How to Build Your Very Own Teardrop Lamp with Concrete, Wood, and 3D Printed Parts

        teardroplamp.png
        2017-09-01_11:52:58.png

        Introduction

        The Teardrop Lamp was designed to utilize 3D printing for a mixed media project. The project includes a concrete base made out of Shapecrete which was molded out of a 3D printed mold, on top of the concrete base sits a wood ring which is a 3D printed ring with wood veneer adhered around the face, then at the top sits the 3D printed shade printed in natural color HIPS which gives a nice white translucent look which works well with white and color lights. No specialized tools are required and a 3D printer is not required - you can utilize a print service such as 3DHubs.com to obtain the 3D printed parts from a local printer.

        What You Will Need

        Materials:

        Tools:

        Any and all protective equipment.

        Concrete Base

        1. Ensure that the inside of the mold is smooth, if not, sand as best as you can. The concrete can be sanded so this step isn’t absolutely crucial but it does help.
        2. Mix roughly 3 parts concrete mix to 1 part water (use the box instructions if using something different than Shapecrete). 
        3. Optional (may help remove concrete from the mold): mix 10 parts water and 1 part dishwashing soap and lightly coat to inside of the mold. Pour concrete immediately after.
        4. Once it is well mixed and cake batter type consistency, pour into mold. Try to fill close to the top edge but not all the way. You have roughly 30 minutes of working time so no need to rush this step. 
        5. Try to remove any air bubbles by slowly shaking the mold. Optionally you can use an orbital sander to apply vibrations to the outside of the mold while spinning it around.
        6. Let the concrete mold sit for at least 48 hours. For now, work on Wood Ring and Shade steps. 
        7. Once the concrete is hardened, remove from mold. You may need to break apart the mold to do this.
        8. Sand outside of the concrete base to desired surface finish. You can use sandpaper manually or use an orbital sander. You can use as low as 80 grit initially and then move toward 320 grit or higher if desired. 
        Starting with a 3D mold for the concrete to settle.

        Wood Ring

        1. Lightly sand the outside of the 3D printed ring so the surface is smooth enough for the veneer to adhere to it. You can use 120 or 220 grit sandpaper for this. 
        2. Wipe down sanded ring with a very lightly damp paper towel and remove all dust.
        3. Wrap the veneer around the ring to measure how much is needed, cut roughly 1 inch longer than needed.
        4. Before using Clothes Iron remove any water and allow clothes iron to dry.
        5. Heat up a clothes iron on the cotton setting. (Warning - some residue from the process may get on heat plate, though this did not happen during my build)
        6. Wrap wood veneer around wood ring and use a binder clip to assist keeping veneer in place during the process.
        7. Use iron to melt adhesive, allowing it to stick to the 3D printed ring. The general speed to avoid scorching the wood is 2 inches per second but it seems to be quite tolerant of the heat. Do this until all veneer is glued onto the ring.
        8. Once at the end you can trim up the excess and finally adhere the last section of the veneer.
        9. Apply linseed oil to veneer by applying a generous amount all the way around.
        10. Let the oil sit and penetrate wood for roughly 10 minutes.
        11. Wipe any excess oil from veneer.

        Shade

        1. Lightly sand the outside of the 3D printed shade so the surface is smooth. 
        2. Wipe down sanded shade with very lightly damp paper towel and remove all dust.
        3. Optionally apply clear coat to sanded shade and let dry.

        Assembly

        1. Insert light fixture into the concrete base and glue the fixture to the base.
        2. Glue wood ring to concrete base.
        3. Insert Light Bulb into fixture
        4. Lightly hot glue Shade to wood ring (I would suggest using a drop of hot glue to 2-4 points around the ring in the event you want/need to change the bulb. You will be able to use a knife to remove shade from the ring. The diameter of the shade at the top is very narrow and does not allow for easy exchanging of bulbs.
        5. Plug in and enjoy.
        Lamp-1.jpg

        Recommendations

        1. I would suggest color changing LED bulbs for lights since it will give you long lasting bulbs and the flexibility to change the color of the lights at any time.
        2. Phillips Hue bulbs though expensive can give you “smart” features for your lamps as well.
        3. Here are some different options for light bulbs I recommend (in order of price):

          Standard E26 light bulb ~$6

          RGB LED Light bulb ~$16

          Phillips Hue Smart Light Bulbs Starter Pack (WHITE ONLY) ~$60

          Phillips Hue Smart Light Bulbs Pack (FULL COLOR) ~$200

          The light kits I chose were on sale but still expensive. Here is an alternative option that is much cheaper:

          Light Kit ~$20

           

        3D Printed Parts

        If you are sourcing your 3D printed parts, I’d suggest a local printer on 3D Hubs so you can pick up your printed pieces without having to risk shipping. Be sure to communicate the below settings when placing your order:

        Shade (this needs to have high surface quality)

        • Filament recommendation - e-Sun HIPS in Natural Color
        • 0.1mm layer height
        • 25% infill
        • Slow printing speed
        • No support
        • Brim optional

        Ring and Mold for Concrete Base (surface quality not important)

        • Filament recommendation - white PLA (any/cheap)
        • 0.2mm layer height
        • 15% infill
        • Support optional (might be needed for concrete base mold)

        Visit 3D Hubs to order a 3D print.


        Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build! Reach out on social media or leave a comment. If you have suggestions about future builds or improvements to the way the builds are presented please let me know.

         

        ***Links provided are affiliate links if used to purchase something may provide Adylinn Studio a small commission to keep the site and projects running. This does not cost you anything.