3D Printed Parts
I printed these on my Ultimaker 3 with a 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height since they are not very visible and because they were 12 total bases to print I opted for speed. Here are my general recommendations for printing these out.
- Filament choice not important. I used Matterhackers Build PLA.
- 0.3mm layer height.
- 10% infill.
- Skirt/brim optional.
- 60-80 mm/s
If you decide to print the tops, switch to high detail settings.
- Filament with good surface quality. My personal favorite is the beautiful HTPLA from Proto-Pasta (has been my go-to lately).
- 0.1 – 0.2mm layer height.
- 20% infill.
- Skirt/brim optional.
- 50-70 mm/s
I am still learning my X-Carve and converting my Fusion 360 designs to CAM for CNC so this was like all my CNC projects has been learning process. I used ½” walnut hardwood mixed with some ¾” pieces I had left over.
Fusion 360 CAM Setup:
Contour used to cut out the individual pieces.
Circular Toolpath used for the holes.
Finishing the walnut pieces:
- Removed the individual pieces by cutting away the tabs.
- Sanded them using 180-320 sandpaper and handheld sander.
- Wiped them down and then applied some linseed oil (I’ve been using the same can since my first ever Adylinn Build!).
- After 20 or so minutes I wiped away the excess oil.
- I used some generic matte clear coat to finish up the parts.
Assembling the fixture:
- Using the screw and nut, I attached each top part to the base and continued until all 3 parts were assembled on the base.
- Once all 12 individual triangles were completed I worked up several shapes and designs until I decided which I preferred best and didn’t exceed the length required by the LED strips.
- I used a combination of wood glue and superglue to attach the individual triangles together to form the final structure. Glue dried for 24 hours.
- I then wrapped the LED strip around the structure and the used the adhesive backing to adhere it all the way around. I had to trim about 6-9 inches off the end of the strip. The strip adhesive backing was not enough to keep the strip attached and so I went back around with some hot glue to keep it in place and secure.
Mounting the lights:
- I used a total of 4 nails to get both fixtures attached to the wall.
- To make it a little more secure and stable I added several small pieces of double sided tape to the back of the base to attach to the wall.
The lights plug in via USB and have a moderate sized component to capture the sound as well as adjust the settings of the strip. I put these close to my 3D printed speakers and queued up some music!
All in all this was a great build, I think that the strips provide a neat effect but don’t quite follow the beat and so that does impact the vibe a bit. Several mistakes made and lessons learned.
Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build!