Materials:

3D Printed Parts

I printed these on my Ultimaker 3 with a 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height since they are not very visible and because they were 12 total bases to print I opted for speed. Here are my general recommendations for printing these out.

Base:

  • Filament choice not important. I used Matterhackers Build PLA.
  • 0.3mm layer height.
  • 10% infill.
  • Skirt/brim optional.
  • 60-80 mm/s

Top:

If you decide to print the tops, switch to high detail settings.

  • Filament with good surface quality. My personal favorite is the beautiful HTPLA from Proto-Pasta (has been my go-to lately).
  • 0.1 – 0.2mm layer height.
  • 20% infill.
  • Skirt/brim optional.
  • 50-70 mm/s

CNC Parts

I am still learning my X-Carve and converting my Fusion 360 designs to CAM for CNC so this was like all my CNC projects has been learning process. I used ½” walnut hardwood mixed with some ¾” pieces I had left over.

Fusion 360 CAM Setup:

Contour used to cut out the individual pieces.

Bit: https://www.inventables.com/technologies/solid-carbide-2-flute-straight-end-mill

Circular Toolpath used for the holes.

Bit: https://www.inventables.com/technologies/solid-carbide-downcut-fish-tail-spiral-bit

Finishing the walnut pieces:

  1. Removed the individual pieces by cutting away the tabs.
  2. Sanded them using 180-320 sandpaper and handheld sander.
  3. Wiped them down and then applied some linseed oil (I’ve been using the same can since my first ever Adylinn Build!).
  4. After 20 or so minutes I wiped away the excess oil.
  5. I used some generic matte clear coat to finish up the parts.

 Assembling the fixture:

  1. Using the screw and nut, I attached each top part to the base and continued until all 3 parts were assembled on the base.
  2. Once all 12 individual triangles were completed I worked up several shapes and designs until I decided which I preferred best and didn’t exceed the length required by the LED strips.
  3. I used a combination of wood glue and superglue to attach the individual triangles together to form the final structure. Glue dried for 24 hours.
  4. I then wrapped the LED strip around the structure and the used the adhesive backing to adhere it all the way around. I had to trim about 6-9 inches off the end of the strip. The strip adhesive backing was not enough to keep the strip attached and so I went back around with some hot glue to keep it in place and secure.

Mounting the lights:

  1. I used a total of 4 nails to get both fixtures attached to the wall.
  2. To make it a little more secure and stable I added several small pieces of double sided tape to the back of the base to attach to the wall.

Wrap Up:

The lights plug in via USB and have a moderate sized component to capture the sound as well as adjust the settings of the strip. I put these close to my 3D printed speakers and queued up some music!

All in all this was a great build, I think that the strips provide a neat effect but don’t quite follow the beat and so that does impact the vibe a bit. Several mistakes made and lessons learned.

Thanks for taking the time to explore the project, I hope you try it and if you do I’d love to hear your feedback and see pictures of your build!

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